Tom...F-4 info...

What are your feeling for an F-4 for local parks and such used a CZ since 92 and have a CZ3D for the deepies..Thanks, Dan

Hey Dan, glad to see you on this forum ol' pal.
Sorry to interrupt the question, just glad to see you here.

-Mike

Hi Dan,

Personally, I do not own a F-4...... but your timing is interesting..... as a few folks have recently reported to me of their F-4 field results. Two of the three had 'high marks' for the F-4. One of them went back to his Ace 250..... feeling it was easier to use and the audio presentation was better. Hmmmmmmm. I could only speculate. I know the Ace 250 is a tremendous 'bang-for-the-buck'; however, I feel the F-4 should hold the 'trump card' just simply due to the elliptical DD coil target seperation characteristics.
In my opinion Dan....... overall....... I'd select your CZ-3D for general coin hunting ...... and for the 'deepies'. ---A properly tuned 3D should trump nearly everything and in nearly every possible hunting scenario....... not to mention it's reliable EMI stability factor.

Tom

After all these years with a CZ I surely know what my favorite unit will be a CZ when I hang up my boots and certainly understand CZ3D provides that little extra especially for old places.
I am sure a F-4 will serve me well and can understand some one going to a Ace 250 for simplicity but its large nickle facet and its bonging of that belltone
sort of turned me off for local parks. Over the years using just about all of the top of the line units am sure an F4 will be a piece of cake to learn. Certainly appreciate your input as info on this particuliar unit is limited.
Hi Panman thanks for the welcome to the forum.
Give me a couple of weeks and expect an unbiased report on the F4 and everyone knows I call them as I see them...

Tom, when you said "In my opinion Dan....... overall....... I'd select your CZ-3D for general coin hunting ...... and for the 'deepies'. ---A properly tuned 3D should trump nearly everything and in nearly every possible hunting scenario....... not to mention it's reliable EMI stability factor." Were you talking of compared to Dan's machines or all/most machines in general? I ask this because i was just about to push the "Launch Button" for an F-75 purchase, and it wouldda kick started a vomit to learn the cz-3d was a better machine.

I bought a cz7apro from Dan-Pa (who began this thread) many years ago, was the deepest hunting machine I owned, but i got tired of digging nails at 18 inches, and when they give off a perfect coin id and the deepies don't let you "follow" the nail to get a perspective on it's length, hence, you dig it...well, i was close to carpal tunnel syndrome w/ all the hole digging, hadda sell it to a relic hunter...who looooves it.

Dan, ..... would highly honor/appreciate your F-4 experiences when the time comes.

Mike, There's been (embarassing to/on my behalf) severe batch inconsistency with the latter CZ-3D's. Yes, I am refering specifically to (and only) the 3D's. I'm quite certain the newest batches have the CZ-3D labels on them; however, the conductivity specs are no longer my design intent. I dare say anymore.

Tom

Depends on where you get your 3d from.....

But... my CZ-3D gets deep and is very accurate on the deep targets.

Just last weekend I dug three wheats 1910-1915-1920, in the same hole at 10" in my dark loamy Ohio soil. 8" coil. High tone with good volume.... set just below five on vol.

A good note to remember about deep nails,and the 3D. A deep nail will not pin-point on the same spot as it tones on. Draw the "x" and you won't pin-point on the center of that x. You're toning on the nail tip, and pin-pointing on the body of the nail. Hot rocks will tone on the 3D, but won't pin-point. Once the ears are trained to the sounds of the 3D, you'll find that nails and coins don't even sound the same. It takes a little use to get used to.The four sets of batteries rule applies to the 3D.

I've sold all my other detectors in favor of the 3-d. Now, with that said,the 3d will give you an overload signal on larger coins, or say a pocketwatch that is close to the surface. Pushing pin-point and checking the size of the object helps. But, on deep old coins, unbeatable IMO.

Simplicty at it's best.

Ken



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/07/2008 05:35PM by Kas.

And a additional side-note;

After you have pin-pointed a nail....... that P-P location WILL MOVE as you rotate your body around the nail. A flat coin will not do this.... UNLESS it is tilted.... then the PP location will move... as you rotate your body around the coin..... BUT... no where near as much as a nail (general rule-of-thumb).

Good post Ken.

Tom