Minelab Equinox owners - Question

Del,

In my experience, for what it's worth, square nails are absolutely the most difficult iron trash to deal with, that there could possibly be. I don't hunt in square nails much; there are VERY few sites in Oklahoma that have square nails; we are too young. But, there's an old military fort site here, from the mid 1850s, that I have been fortunate enough to hunt a few times, and dealing with the square nails there "eats my lunch." Same thing when back in PA -- there's an OLD church (circa 1800) that I like to hunt, but it's burned at least twice in its history, and the front lawn is LITTERED with the square nail debris from those demolitions/re-builds. And, again, they give me FITS. There are some square nails that -- to me -- simply sound GOOD. As in, I would have SWORN there was a coin in the hole. Even when I'm trying NOT to "reach," and minimize my number of square nail digs, I still dig more than my share -- and that is with ANY machine I've ever used.

One thing I will say, on this new build, is that I am liking it more and more. YES, I am sure it is dirt dependent, and a lot definitely depends on the TYPE of iron you have in the ground (i.e. square nails, or round, modern ones). But with that said, I really enjoyed running the new build tonight. It was a continuation of last night, but with more confidence and more certainty in what the machine is telling me. Same park as last night; there is really something aobut this new build... For me anyway, the machine almost seems to WANT to tell you that the high tones are just iron falses. There are SO many clues/tells...there is just a TON of intelligence in the tones, even more now than in the old build. I got to the point tonight where I WANTED to dig the high tones, I was TRYING to "turn the nails into coins," mentally, and yet the machine would not let me! I'd hear a chirp, that would sound pretty doggone good, and then I'd slow down, and interrogate, and sure enough, the audio would break up, or change substantially in pitch, or get flutey, or all of the above...it was almost like the machine was saying "DON'T dig that!" Now, again, I'm still a newbie with this "no iron bias" way of hunting the EQX, and so I'm SURE that if there were any coins closely co-located with nails tonight that I ran across, that I passed them off as iron. But on the other hand, I did dig several more non-ferrous targets from amongst the iron, including two more wheats, a button, a "disabled veterans" tag, and a couple of other items. I was only fooled "entirely" on a handful of targets -- two were very thin "wiry" pieces of rusty iron, one was a roofing nail that I thought could be an Indian, and there were a couple of others. There were a few that I went ahead and "reached" for; I recall that I dug one nail in particular that was bent 90 degrees, that before digging I only assigned a 20% probability that there was a non-ferrous target in the ground...but otherwise, I swear that running this new build, with F2=0, the machine almost STOPS you from digging the falses! There are so many "tells..."

Two key things I've learned, to "draw out" these tells...

1. ROTATE SLOWLY around the target, 360 degrees, if necessary (it rarely takes the full rotation, though, for the "tells" to show up...usually only about 90 degrees). Rotate VERY slowly. And the whole time you are rotating, do the "Minelab wiggle" over the center of the target. Tiny, short, choppy, moderate-speed sweeps. I mean, a couple of inches either side of the target. And as you rotate, listen closely. This is nothing new; I'm sure this is "basic" for many guys, and I've always hunted this way, thanks to my "mentor" teaching me this years ago. But with the Equinox, especially this new build, the key to figuring out the targets seems to be how well the machine can hold the clean high tone as you move through the different angles/sectors of rotation. For MANY of these targets, you can't even rotate 10 to 20 degrees before the tones turn to pure iron tones. Others will hold the "high tone" for a larger sector, but eventually you hear "chokes" in the tone, or the tone "breaks up," or drops down quite a bit lower in pitch for portions of the rotation around the target (often 180 degrees opposite one another)...it's hard to describe all the things that happen, but they are there. It's VERY obvious, to my ears anyway...

2. ALTER YOUR SWEEP SPEED -- substantially, while "interrogating" a suspected falsing nail. Sweep FAST and choppy, then EXTREMELY slow, barely moving...and again, do these things while you are rotating very slowly around the target. A good target will hold a good, clean tone through the rotation, no matter your sweep speed, as you vary it. But if rotating, or varying your sweep speed, causes the tone to change/break up/turn to iron grunts, the target is most likely a falsing nail.

Again, I think both of these points are probably second nature to many, but doing both of these things, especially with this new build, really helps to "draw out" the nuance of the machine's language, and the audio REALLY DOES want to help you discern a "false" high tone, from a "good" high tone.

One caveat -- I have NOT dug a co-located coin and nail yet; again, I MAY have passed over one or two of these types of co-located targets during one of these two hunts, since for now I am mainly digging the ones that I feel have a good chance of there being a non-ferrous target under the coil. But -- if your goal is to pick non-ferrous targets out from among falsing, rusty, modern nails, and you are not SOLELY focused on precision unmasking, I can attest that the audio of the new build is such that it WILL permit/teach you to accomplish this, with VERY few nails dug. NASA-Tom said that running F2=0, and the nail falses will TEACH you how to recognize them...I believe he said "you will see." He's right. I DO see...

One last thing. I am not saying that you CAN'T "unmask well" with this machine. I'm only saying I haven't been trying to, so I can't comment. Right now I'm just working on picking out the "good" high-toning targets from amongst the sea of "false" high-toning iron, trying to minimize nail digs, but maximize non-ferrous digs. And so my point is, if this is what you want to do, this machine with the new software build is capable of helping you do it, quite successfully and accurately.

Steve

Tom D. Question. I'm hunting a trashy and iron site lets say at a old park. The ground is very mild I'm looking for high conductors. We will use a silver dime for a example. Depending on the angle of the silver dime weather it be flat or straight up and down or at a 45 degree angle or anyplace in between using F2-0 how much of a tone difference vdi change can I expect to encounter? If lets say the dime is reading 27 normally flat. How much difference can I expect that same dime to ready if it's straight up or at a angle? You say we miss high conductor coins on edge because they ID lower than what we would normally expect a certain coin to ID. My Point is will using F2-0 make high conductor coins like a silver dime sound off better than say using F2 1,2,3,4 & etc or any of the Fe bias? I know that a coin on edge and dependent on the direction you hit it the tone and vdi will change. Just wondering if F2-0 would make the coin sound better and standout more? These maybe stupid questions but, if I don't know what I don't know and I don't ask how will I learn.

Steve...… your data is very exacting & precise.

Let me see if I can take you (and others)…. one step further. Nail/coin co-locate. Yes.... F2 '0'. >>>>>>>> ((((But...… FULLY applicable to other detectors...… especially Fisher F70/F75, Garrett AT-Pro, Teknetics T2, Nokta Impact/Racer/Kruzer/Anfibio….etc...……))))

What is the difference between a 'falsing' nail...……………… vs...…………………. a 'falsing' nail/coin combo (in co-locate).

A bent/falsing nail will produce a fluty-staccato-calliope audio response..... as you rotate your body around the target (whilst continuing to sweep target).
A bent/falsing nail in concert/collocate with a coin..... will ALSO produce a fluty-staccato-calliope audio response..... as you rotate your body around the target (whilst continuing to sweep target)…… YET/HOWEVER...… you will find a certain body rotation orientation that produces the best 'resolve' on the coin..... whereby..... the audio will be more punchy/strong/positive/certain …. with minimal fluctuations in audio tone and VDI ID. >>>>>>>> The intel is there!...…….. But...……….

THIS...…....…..........…….TAKES...……..........…………...PRACTICE!!!!

McCJ2 = Too many variables. . . . . . . . even in an air-test.

First......... a coin on edge...... is only exposing a tiny/thin 'edge'..... a very little sliver........ for the detector to detect. , . , . , . , . , . , . , . , especially if the detector utilized..... puts out a extremely tight/narrow DD electromagnetic footprint. This alone...... will severely reduce detection depth.
Now...... if the coin is in dirt....... a 'variable' is introduced. . . . . . . . . . . mineralization "type" and "intensity".... being one of the primary variables.
Also........ Approach-angle into the coin.
Degree of 'tilt' of the coin.

There is no clear-cut answer to your question..... due to these variables. Yes...... F2 '0' will provide the best performance resolution; yet, is too hard to measure..... to give a concrete/definitive answer.
I am still on a learning-curve ("discovery" phase)..... with all of the attributes of F2 '0'.
And........ I'm certain ...... there are still a lot of coins.... that go "missed"....... even with this new/improved technology.

Thanks Tom D. for your answer. If a technology could be developed to see coins on edge better and deeper think of all the coins we coin hunters could find that are just setting there to be found.

Tom D. The one thing I noticed on the Barber dime I hit that was straight up and down was it was thinner than a normal Barber dime. A normal Barber dime is like 1.0 mm thick. This Barber dime was .80 mm thick. And it was around 7 inches deep. Would I have been able to hit that dime better and deeper had it been normal thickness by 20%? What if it had been a silver quarter that is 1.5 mm thick. How deep would I been able to hit it? How much difference did F2-0 make on me finding that silver dime over using the other F2 bias? I know you probably can't answer those questions but, if the technology was here the coins we could uncover would be amazing. It's not only trying to develop a technology that can find coin that are being masked but, also seeing coins on edge.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2019 06:48PM by Mccrorysjewelry2.

NASA-Tom Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Steve...… your data is very exacting & precise.
>
> Let me see if I can take you (and others)…. one st
> ep further. Nail/coin co-locate. Yes.... F2 '0'.
> >>>>>>>> ((((But...… FULLY applicable to other det
> ectors...… especially Fisher F70/F75, Garrett AT-P
> ro, Teknetics T2, Nokta Impact/Racer/Kruzer/Anfibi
> o….etc...……))))
>
> What is the difference between a 'falsing' nail...
> ……………… vs...…………………. a 'falsing' nail/coin combo (
> in co-locate).
>
> A bent/falsing nail will produce a fluty-staccato-
> calliope audio response..... as you rotate your bo
> dy around the target (whilst continuing to sweep t
> arget).
> A bent/falsing nail in concert/collocate with a co
> in..... will ALSO produce a fluty-staccato-calliop
> e audio response..... as you rotate your body arou
> nd the target (whilst continuing to sweep target)…
> … YET/HOWEVER...… you will find a certain body rot
> ation orientation that produces the best 'resolve'
> on the coin..... whereby..... the audio will be mo
> re punchy/strong/positive/certain …. with minimal
> fluctuations in audio tone and VDI ID. >>>>>>>>
> The intel is there![b/]...…….. But...……….
>
> THIS...…....…..........…….TAKES...……..........…………
> ...PRACTICE!!!!

Tom
I guess I have reached peak Intel as I have always employed and successfully what I emboldened above. Yet, I am digging false after false that provides all the intel of a great target. Can't ignore em Yea, I found that wheat penny but I gues in that case it was more luck than anything the ratio of bad too good greatly favors the bad. I kinda like F2 2 with recovery 2 allows for a bit faster sweep and lessen the length of the bad responses. I'm not a patient slow mover anyway.

Tom

Jackpine Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Tom
> I guess I have reached peak Intel as I have always
> employed and successfully what I emboldened above.
> Yet, I am digging false after false that provides
> all the intel of a great target. Can't ignore em
> Yea, I found that wheat penny but I gues in that c
> ase it was more luck than anything the ratio of ba
> d too good greatly favors the bad. I kinda like F
> 2 2 with recovery 2 allows for a bit faster sweep
> and lessen the length of the bad responses. I'm n
> ot a patient slow mover anyway.
>
> Tom

When using 50 tones the co located coin will sound different then the false.
Once you find the correct angle the audio signal and ID will tighten significantly and you will no longer
get the wild id swings that can shoot up into the high 30s.
Sometimes the coin will ID very accurately and other times it can be drawn down by the iron a bit but
it will usually tighten to a nice signal if you work it.
Use your pinpoint for additional information.
A pinpointed coin won’t move.
Ratcheting down the pinpoint can help with isolating.

Bryan



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2019 06:21PM by Cabin Fever.

NASA-Tom Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Mike...….. there's some unique physics employed he
> re.
> First...….. gold rings and aluminum flip-tabs are
> lower conductors to begin with. When they are tilt
> ed (and most are.... to some degree)……. they will
> ID even lower. But...…. ironically...… F2 '0' will
> only (marginally) 'up-average' the ID...… a small
> amount.....(((to answer your question))). The item
> s/targets that attribute the most..... are the hig
> her conductor items..... such as brass/bronze/copp
> er/silver coins. BUT...…. you are on a wet-salt
> beach...….. so you are going to dig anything that
> ID's above iron....anyway!
>
> Sensitivity is to be PRIMARILY utilized …. as a EM
> I mitigation tool. Run the Sens as high as EMI/loc
> al conditions allow. Weak/deep/tilted targets will
> generate a greater signal-strength...… with a high
> er Sens/gain setting; subsequently, ...… present a
> better target (conductivity) ID. (Unless you have
> really bad dirt...… which will give too much feedb
> ack/blowback...… if Sens is too high))).


Tom... would you recommend adjusting the tone break to -1 or -2 for wet sand beach hunting, seeing that on edge low conductors (gold rings) would ID even lower than flat gold rings?
Interestingly, today I buried my 9ct gold ring in iron infested wet beach sand (flat at about pinpointer depth), which usually rings up at ID 13 on clean wet beach sand and airtest, but the new update at F2 0, had ID'd it at 8 - it could be that the iron influenced the drop in ID. I'm just thinking of the other lower ID non-ferrous, like ID's of 1 and 2, that could be ID'd as ferrous in conditions like an iron infested beach and on edge.

Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2019 06:43PM by DiggaMke.

Tom make you pin point those iffy targets. If it pin points right on it's good. If it's off to the side it's bad.

McCJ2 = No...…. the scaling is not linear. You will not get 20% greater depth..... if the coin is 20% thicker.

Tom...…. I do (very seriously) recommend F2 '2'...……. especially since you are acquiring good results with these settings.

Mike..... I am testing this right now...… in my beach hunts. I have not achieved a solid answer.... as of yet. BUT...…. ALSO...…… my conditions may be different..... as ……. my wet-salt beaches do not have much iron.

As with my lengthy reportings with the F75...….. iron flecks/flakes normally will make a non-ferrous target: up-average. Iron nail(s) ….. will make a non-ferrous target: down-average.

Bryan

None of that is working for me and I have been using all those techniques for years. Can't take 50 tones tho LOL

May just be the conditions I'm hunting in. Was at a different site today and was a bit better. That pit of nails though is just too tough. Dropping sensitivity way down is my next move there.

Tom

Rick

I have resorted to pinpointing every single one. It's about 50/50 as to the result which helps eliminate some.

I'm going in there with the ID Edge and 6" coil for grins and giggles. Maybe the single low Freq can do something.

Tom

Jackpine Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bryan
>
> None of that is working for me and I have been usi
> ng all those techniques for years. Can't take 50 t
> ones tho LOL
>
> May just be the conditions I'm hunting in. Was at
> a different site today and was a bit better. That
> pit of nails though is just too tough. Dropping s
> ensitivity way down is my next move there.
>
> Tom

50 Tones is the most important key to success with this Tom.
Sizing, shaping, and isolating with the pinpoint is probably my second most important tool for these tricky targets..

Bryan



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2019 07:34PM by Cabin Fever.

Tom D. On the Equinox 800. Would a recovery speed of 1 or 2 hit a coin on edge better than recovery speed of 3 or 4 in my mild Indiana dirt? Thanks

Well Tom, I'll find out tomorrow how it is. Maybe this evening. Maybe that's the way it is to get more good targets. Having to dig more.

Hey Tom I've been doing some reading of older posts when you talk about "Ground Balance is important! Yes, perform a AUTO Grnd Balance with the EQX"

I had a friend a few weeks back send me some settings which mirror some of these in this forum. I've been running Sen at least 23 or Higher, IB or FE set to Zero, All Metal Mode, I was in 5 Tone but switched to 50, Park 1 and I have been digging some old coin and buttons 8-10" with allot of Iron in the ground. I had barber quarter at about 6" in the hole and the plug I pulled out had a big rusty bolt in the bottom of it. So it was over the quarter that was about straight up and down maybe slight angle. So Gonna Setup my 800 Park 1, 50 Tone Iron vol 1 the rest 25, No Threshold Tone, Recovery Speed 2, FE - 0 and F2 - 2, and Do noise cancels when I think I need to. lastly the Ground Balance Question And Swing Very slow. If anyone can think of anything else please chime in

Is this putting the EQX in Auto Ground Balance or Doing A manual Ground Balance by pumping the coil? Wanna try these setting out this weekend and this is the last piece I don't understand.

Thanks Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2019 12:12AM by Mike K.

McCJ2 = Yes.

Mike K. = Your settings sound good. Remember...… FE and F2 do NOT work together. You select one..... or you select the other. They do NOT work simultaneously. If you are on FE..... then F2 does nothing. If you are on F2...… than FE does nothing. If you select F2 ""2""...…. then do NOT go back to FE. Stay in F2!

AUTO GROUND TRACK...…. is NOT Auto Ground Balance.
Auto Ground Balance is: Using the settings button...… scroll over to the Ground Balance Mode. (This is the 2nd settings icon). Then press (and hold) the accept/reject button..... and pump the coil up-and-down. . . . . . until the numbers on the screen "lock on" to a particular number. The detector automatically finds the best Ground Balance number.
Manual Ground Balance is: Using the settings button...… scroll over to the Ground Balance Mode. Start pumping the coil...….. and use either the "+" or the "-" button...…. manually...… to minimize/neutralize the audio feedback from the dirt.
In either case..... make SURE the dirt that you use to Grnd Bal with..... has ZERO metallic object(s)/target(s) in it...….. (or even close to it)!!!

NASA-Tom Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> What is the difference between a 'falsing' nail...
> ……………… vs...…………………. a 'falsing' nail/coin combo (
> in co-locate).
>
> A bent/falsing nail will produce a fluty-staccato-
> calliope audio response..... as you rotate your bo
> dy around the target (whilst continuing to sweep t
> arget).
> A bent/falsing nail in concert/collocate with a co
> in..... will ALSO produce a fluty-staccato-calliop
> e audio response..... as you rotate your body arou
> nd the target (whilst continuing to sweep target)…
> … YET/HOWEVER...… you will find a certain body rot
> ation orientation that produces the best 'resolve'
> on the coin..... whereby..... the audio will be mo
> re punchy/strong/positive/certain …. with minimal
> fluctuations in audio tone and VDI ID. >>>>>>>>
> The intel is there!...…….. But...……….
>
> THIS...…....…..........…….TAKES...……..........…………
> ...PRACTICE!!!!

NASA-Tom,

I really appreciate this additional information. I fully understand what you are saying. And, I will focus my efforts on practicing exactly this.

However, one thing I will say, is that it is QUITE FREQUENT that I can find a sector or sectors, while rotating a nail (without the co-located coin), where I can acquire what sounds -- to me -- like a very good signal. Smooth, consistent, repeatable, little fluctuation in tone or VDI...such that, if that VERY SAME SIGNAL were continued for the full 360 degrees, it would be a "no brainer" dig-me target (at least to my ears). Another way to put it...if I were to allow myself only that one sweep angle, and then make my decision at that point -- no rotating around the target, just decide dig, or no dig, from that ONE sector -- I can think of MANY nails where my decision would be a pretty confident "dig it" decision. So, I'm not sure how well, or how quickly, I will be able to successfully put this into practice. Your entire description of the difference between the nail only, and the nail-coin co-locate, made total sense, but it also made it sound VERY do-able to achieve...but… your final three words in your post -- about PRACTICE -- confirms that it is NOT as easy as it sounds, so I will work/focus very specifically on practicing what you said.

What I would LOVE, would be to capture some of these "very good-sounding nails, in one sector of rotation" on video, WITH audio, showing what sounds to me like good audio/VDI in that certain sector, and then have it "critiqued," so that I could possibly learn to hear what I am missing.


Cabin Fever Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

>
> When using 50 tones the co located coin will sound
> different then the false.
> Once you find the correct angle the audio signal a
> nd ID will tighten significantly and you will no l
> onger
> get the wild id swings that can shoot up into the
> high 30s.
> Sometimes the coin will ID very accurately and oth
> er times it can be drawn down by the iron a bit bu
> t
> it will usually tighten to a nice signal if you wo
> rk it.
> Use your pinpoint for additional information.
> A pinpointed coin won’t move.
> Ratcheting down the pinpoint can help with isolati
> ng.
>
> Bryan

Bryan,

You are saying a lot of what NASA-Tom said, and like I said, I WILL practice this -- very specifically, and in a very focused way, in my several hunts, and see if I can make ANY headway. But I have a very strong feeling that what I will end up with is ALOT of bent nails!

BUT -- you said something I consider very important, which I forgot to mention before. PINPOINT!!! I have heard many folks say that the Equinox is so good at indicating the precise location of targets that they don't even USE the pinpoint mode, OR, that they use the "wiggle back" method. And I totally get it. BUT -- I personally believe, as do you, that the pinpoint mode is a HUGE help, in separating the nail false high tones, from the "good" high tones. Sizing, is one thing that pinpoint mode helps with, but just as important IMO is seeing if the "pinpoint" of the target matches the high toning area. If I am hearing a high tone, and I locate the target with pinpoint, I'll often go back and forth, trying to ascertain whether the high tone and the pinpoint are co-located. OFTEN, you can't get a good pinpoint lock on, no matter how hard you try, at the location of your high tone -- and this is usually in my experience a DEAD giveaway that it's a false...

Steve



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2019 03:30AM by steveg.

I’m not sure if it can ever be fully mastered Steve, but you can no doubt increase your success rate dramatically.
Tom said it best. “This takes Practice “
I still dig a few nails each hunt. The difference now days is that I know that I’m probably digging a nail.
Most nail falsing I can now confidently analyze and pass, but some I can only put odds on and will still dig knowing
it’s likely a nail.
It took a HUGE number of surprise nail digs over the years to get to this point.
After awhile something just starts to click that is hard to put into words..
For me it’s coil control and understanding the audio that comes with it.

I now seek out these tough signals looking for the hidden coins others missed..
Those tough co located signals and the real deep ones are mostly all that’s left in the public parks..

Bryan



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2019 05:53AM by Cabin Fever.

Steve are you running in 5 tones? For me it seemed if quarters were set at 25 it affected the SIZE of the targets. Thou it was a stop you in your tracks i also felt it was a small very brief tone. Even large targets like sun glasses or a can lid when NOT using PP mode sounded the same size. Been a while since i dirt hunted..... but i do know what you are saying about iron moving based on direction as a tell. Our bigger coils give us depth..... but the down side is PPing/masking in trash/iron.

Cabin Fever = Spot on!

I NEVER attempt to pinpoint for a coin...………… in a coin/nail combo. Inevitably..... the nail will win...….. as...…. iron/Fe is most always stronger.

Tom D... I have been testing the -1 to -3 tone break and I am impressed with this new update.
You cannot fool it - even with a -3 tone break... it gives off the lower conductor tone... BUT there is an iron tell-tale sign and I dug just to be sure ...and it was rusty hairpins, tent pegs and small bits of iron. Very impressed and confident. Now for the beach to open up. *Sigh*

Tom D wrote

For the record...… a TRR of 1 can present greater
> depths in areas with sparse targets and low minera
> lization. BUT...… the drawback is: the audio does
> indeed sound elongated/smeared...… hard on/for the
> human ear.

Tom my question is would TRR of 2 be the best choice for me to use for hitting coins on edge in my iron and trashy parks when using F2-0? I have been using TTR at 3. Wanting to get a little more depth without hurting the sounds of the targets. Like I said my ground here in Indiana is very Mild. Plus when I do a ground balance and the number come up lets say 20 or less is it okay to just run it at 0? Will it have much of a negative effect on hitting on targets by dropping it to 0? Plus I can't tell you how many old coins I have pulled beside iron that didn't pinpoint over the coin. I never use pinpoint to determine weather to dig a target beside iron. In pinpoint the iron will always win. I go by the sound I'm getting beside the iron. If it sounds good I dig it. Thanks



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2019 03:40PM by Mccrorysjewelry2.

Hair pins and even worse.....small screws on the beach lol

Bryan --

That's where I want to get to -- where I SEEK OUT those tough nail/coin targets, because YES, the partially masked ones, and the deep ones, are about all that are left to be found, in most public places. I have achieved a level where I can confidently go into a previously hunted site, and feel that I have a good chance of digging the fringe-depth targets others have missed, but I'm not there yet, with the "partially masked" ones. That's where I want to get to -- to be able to ALSO dig the MASKED coins that are "too tough" for most others.

Dew --

No, I run 50 tones; never anything else.

NASA-Tom --

Thanks for the additional tidbits of info!

Looks like I have a lot of work to do; work I have largely "avoided," in the past...due to lack of confidence/skill. I am ready to learn/develop that skill, and I now have a "process" to do so...

Thanks, all!

Steve



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2019 07:34PM by steveg.

McCJ2..... I would never recommend/use a TRR of '1'..... in a trashy park. TRR '2' or '3' is nearly always the best.

Mike...… Target ID reliability (and repeatability)..…. is paramount!

NASA-Tom Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Cabin Fever = Spot on!
>
> I NEVER attempt to pinpoint for a coin...………… in a
> coin/nail combo. Inevitably..... the nail will win
> ...….. as...…. iron/Fe is most always stronger.


Tom If you never attempt to pinpoint while coin hunting. I've always heard that by using pinpoint you can judge the size of a target. Is this true or not true? Plus Iron targets usually never pinpoint in the same area that the sweet sound came from. Like a silver coin when swept in one direction and then 90 degrees to it. Usually puts you over the target. But when in pin point mode if that target is an iron one it will usually pinpoint in another spot.

Pinpoint also tells you it's a false hit on iron off to the side.

Rick, N. MI Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Pinpoint also tells you it's a false hit on iron off to the side.


True, but you have pay very close attention to the response and pinpoint details. A coin very close to larger iron can seem like its just the iron in pinpoint. The trick is to see if there NO pinpoint response over the good hit spot, but only off to the side. If you have any amount of response under the good hit, you still gotta err on the side of caution and dig it anyway. Ive pulled some great coins missed by everyone else because the pinpoint sounded small and pulled much louder to the iron several inches to the side. Of course, I do get a few bent nails now and again, but I consider it worth the trouble.

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