My G2 is back. The coil mounting screw is broken...need advice

They have nylon nuts and bolts at Ace Hardware. Until I get a replacement, can I replace this plastic coil-mounting bolt with another non-metallic bolt? Has anyone here done that??? I would LOVE to test this unit. I may use wire ties or something until tomorrow. Lowe's (which is still open) MIGHT have something. Can I PLEASE get some feedback on this problem. Surely it has happened to others and you 'made do' with something else. I appreciate your kindnesses. Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas.

I have used the white nylon bolts and wing nuts from Lowes. Not a problem.

after buying my new G2 (few years back) opened the box and found the plastic bolt broken. Incredibly cheap, brittle part. Glad it was broken so as not to fail 'in the field'.
I bought a white nylon replacement bolt & screw and they're still doing fine. The nylon ones will bend, and are not brittle. just get one of these (and a spare set while you're
at it) Don't even try to get another original one or the same thing could happen.

cheers

Actually you can use a steel bolt. Because it is stationary it will not affect the detector.

Today is my lucky day!!!!! I found a white nylon bolt in my toolbox that PERFECTLY fits the black nut that screws on the other side. Works perfectly. I had to trim the length of the bolt with my Dremel and a cutoff wheel. And here is the GREAT PART!!!: My G2 runs as quiet as any G2 I have owned and it is 'spot on' with air tests compared to my notes on my last few G2's/Fisher Gold Bug Pro.
Shovelnose. I appreciate your feedback my friend. The bolt that I found was purchased from Lowes and it's white. I was lucky that the threads where identical to the threads on the stock coil mounting bolt.

Glad you got it sorted, Kevin.
This thread has reminded me of the inherent design flaw in the Fisher/Tek 11 x 7 biaxial coil. The two fixing lugs for the stem are stiffened with ribs on the outer surfaces. These ribs are tapered in height (probably an injection-moulding necessity) and so the overall distance the nut/bolt clamps onto is tapered. This strains the bolt below it's head, and where it enters the nut - it's quite clear when you look closely. What's needed is some tapered washers under each end, to 'straighten out' the bolt. To stop the washers rotating, they need small ribs to match those on the coil lugs. Or, one step further: make a special nut with the taper/ribs integral, no need for the knurled finger-grip edge, just tighten up the bolt end.
Now I feel the urge to make a set...

Yes Pimento....I agree. I noticed that yesterday when trying to figure a way out of my dilemma. Actually, I think that the smaller head on the nylon bolt is much better than the black knurled head on the Fisher/Tek bolt.
Very good observation Pimento. Happy Thanksgiving!!!

I notice the NEW 5 inch DD coils, with the moulded case (rather than the old vaccuum-formed one) seems to have the same type of lug design for the stem. It's a lighter coil, though, so you're less likely to over-tighten / strain the bolt. Unless you use the 5 incher for smashing through crop stubble, like we do here.

Oh, by the way, I forgot to mention.....when I got my G2 back yesterday.....it look like they gave me a new coil!!! And I KNOW that they gave me a new coil cover!!! The new coil cover looks like this, with tabs on it:

Notice the tabs that are on the coil cover.....for better alignment I assume. I really do like this unit.
Oh yeah, another question: is there a certain way that I can turn the G2 on so that I can see what software is installed??? And what is the latest software code?

Kevin if you shoot me your address I will send you a spare one I have laying around. Greg

Kevin----To answer your question----with the G2 off--push the pinpoint button in & hold it in while turning on the detector--keep holding the p.p. in (pushed in)---the version # will come up on the screen momentarily.-----I think the latest is version 4.-----------Del

After some thought about the tapered coil lugs / bent bolt, I decided the best solution would be to modify the lug ribs so that they present a parallel surface for the nut/bolt. I improvised a jig out of a 1/4" bar and a 16.5mm diameter plastic rod, with a 1/4" hole through it, that fits over the bar. I then double-sided taped a cicular piece of aluminum-oxide paper to the end of the rod. This allowed me to abrade away the ribs just where the bolt/nut fit. The result is two flat parallel surfaces, and a bolt that shows no sign of strain.
Here's the "How-To", posted on a U.K forum:
[www.metaldetectingforum.co.uk]
16.5mm would be about 21/32" for you US guys.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/26/2015 11:24PM by Pimento.

it (a steel bolt) might not make the detector beep, but it will affect the field, and consequently detection depth.


Pac man Wrote:
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> Actually you can use a steel bolt. Because it is
> stationary it will not affect the detector.