Short Video - Example of co-located iron dropping VID on 11 inch deep target

This, I believe, is an excellent example of the effect of co-located iron on a non-ferrous target. There was noticeable rust in the ground as I reached the target as well as attached to the target (and you can see it falling off).

The rusted iron in the vicinity rose the VID on the Fe side a full 50%, from 13 to 20 or so! For any detector, this drop will probably happen and most people don't dig these signals. I like the phrase from TheMarshal over at Finds - "They are metal rejectionists, not detectorists." ;-)

One can only imagine how much the VID can drop depending on the size, state, vicinity, etc. of the iron to the target.

Enjoy,
Albert

[www.youtube.com]

Earth..couldn't agree with you more. If folks would do more co-located iron/good target bench testing........they would see how obvious this is. And dig these signals in the wild. I know I do. Lots of time its iron........but I have some pretty nice silver for digging those high/low ID numbers. Audio high tone, ever so brief, is the tip-off, along with a brief high ID number. The First Texas 5" DD coil is so awesome for this type of co-located identification.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2012 04:04AM by TerraDigger.

One thing to do when you dig co-located target's as you just did is to keep a mental note of it....

Notice how many object's on each hunt that you actually find target's that are co-located ...

You will notice over your hunt's it is very minimal...most of the time there will be no iron in the vicinity...

But take notice to the one's that are co-located then try and put that to use....I

I notice right off the bat that the iron target was tag ring..and that tag ring will read better than a full iron hit it will bounce on all detector's...have a stright piece of iron on top of the 81 tag and thing's will change .....in other word's that iron ring was trying to read as high as much as that small tag was...

It just another varifier of just how hard it is to get co-located target's that read 50% decent....

I have dug co-located target's that actually read decent ...and they were object's were a nail had actually fused to the non-ferrous object....

get an air gap in between object's and the whole scenario changes for the worst....The closer the air gap the better you chances...plus the highest conductor being masked but the smallest iron increases you chances...but that deep 81 tag with a nail dead center 8 inches above it and the tag would not be dug...the tag would not have enough conductance to overcome the nail...


Nice video as always earthman...

and study what object's you dig like this...for the most part there's always something bit different ...

Keith

Thanks for that comment Keith. You are correct - I don't dig a lot of coins and pull iron out of the hole close to the coins. That is what I notice visually though. However, I often re-sweep holes and more times than not get some small trash or iron in the plug. (That was true with my V3i and Omega as well though.) Almost every sweep I make has a null at some point in it - with the E-Trac. Every so often I get a constant null as I run my sensitivity high, but by slowing things down I can usually get the threshold to break through again. I do need to play with running auto +3 in my ground. I've been on this deep coin binge lately after years of not touching them so excuse my sensitivity ignorance!

I agree, a bigger or straight piece of iron on top completely nulls out the coin. You got me wondering though about tilting my coil (right or left) over nulls to see if maybe I can pull a signal out. You know, similar to how an angled coil can pick up a coin on edge better, at least in theory if it isn't too deep (which I never do though.)

I don't understand about you saying you noticed it right off the bat though. There was a lot of rust in the hole (you couldn't see it but I mentioned it) and that large clump of rust fell off as I held the tag in my hand. I do get what you mean about the iron ring trying to read higher (just cause of the shape).

To be honesty, I don't see a hole lot of consistent Fe numbers in the 20 to 24 range but this one stood out, I usually make 27 or so my cut off point. I re-watched the video and it seemed that the sound was better out of the ground, so it was matching the VID in the ground. I thought maybe it wasn't. I walk past all Fe numbers in the 20 range that are shallow and pinpoint small - I haven't seen any coins show up there but perhaps I need to check them out at least.

Thanks for your comments. I know you are a very experienced hunter so I take what you say, re-read it, and try to understand and then apply it.
Albert

I quess I should of said when I saw the tag it made more sense to me...it had the round iron loop on it...thats what I meant...Did not mean before it was dug LOL!!!

Tilting the coil on null's....That's were a super tight DD comes into play....Isolated null ....a quick tilt of the coil might reveal a keeper.....The AT-PRO works very well on the tilt sweep... the E-Trac might as well.... the F-75 is the tightest at depth though.. it's very narrow...

I think you are doing a great service earthman...It's not everyone who would take the time to convey there experinces to other's through video as you do..

I try to make videos ..I actually got a niceer camera the other day but it's very cumbersome...And let's face it when you do such video's it's a gift to other's...free for the taking if anyone want's it...Thats the great thing about the internet unselfish people helping other's that they dont know or probably will never meet in a lifetime....

Good work Earthman...

thanks for yor effort...

Keith

Thanks again Keith. I actually enjoy making the videos. I get comments (from guys like you) and that in turn helps me. That wasn't my initial intention of course, I am a teacher so am drawn to helping in a sense. Thanks for your kind words none the less!

If you want to film I have got a great and cheap setup. Someone with your amount of experience, the things you could communicate (like that coil tilt) and so on, would be invaluable. If you missed my thread where I mentioned my video setup it's quite simple. I use what is called a Magic Arm. It is an infinitely adjustable "L" shaped arm that can move however you want it as well as another adjustment where the Camera connects. It is extremely quick. It is around 40 bucks on Ebay (woops, looks like prices went up) - [www.ebay.com]

For a camera I have the Kodak Play Sport ZX5. It has 8Gb of memory and an internal battery that has been enough for 8 hours of hunting (maybe 3 hours of filming or so and deleting those that didn't work out). It is waterproof to 10 feet, which makes rinsing it off after a muddy hunt easy. It is VERY SIMPLE and offers 640X480 all the way up to 1080HD 30fps. I prefer the 720 60fps, but my internet connection is a bit too slow for uploads there. A key feature is it's auto macro focus and glare blocking features. Here it is, and also easier to find in other colors, but I have black. [www.amazon.com]

Do it! eheheheh

Thanks,
Albert

Tilting the coil? By doing so it might unmask a target? I had never thought of using the coil in any position other than parallel to the ground.

Yes coil tilting is handy sometime's,, and it will produce sometime's....

I use it around trees and bush's ...larger rocks you can move easily and fallen tree's...

I have found thing's like this through the year's...if you get a hit dig beside obstacle if it's not movable then after a few inches cut under...

Keith