Fisher coil

Has anyone ever successfully repaired a cracked coil ear for a fisher 11" biaxial (G2/gbp) What epoxy/glue works best for the repair? Any extra fiber or plastic for reinforcement?

thats tuff....

I can tell you I fixed a ear one time on a Tesoro brown coil...

now heres what i did and it may or may not work....I took the coil cover... seemed to be the same plastic...and cut a piece off and chipped it up real fine....like slaw....then went to the hardware store and got some M.E.K. and dissolved the plastic into the M.E.K. and let it sit for awhile while it melted and created a slurry....took a few hours to slurry up into a paste..


then I took the piece broken and applied some M.E.K. to it at both the break points and let it soften some .. then took the slurry and slobbed on the broken piece and attached piece to coil... then took the rest and slobbered it around the outside and let dry overnight with a clothes pin holding it for the first hour or so then removing it at letting it hold itself... next day took dremel tool and cleaned it up a bit but it was not really noticable and it worked fine.....

Ive heard that the way a coil is sealed is with M.E.K. and a plastic slurry but not sure....but it will be super strong if your lucky .. the reasoning to it is the palstic sort of all melts together and then rehardens as one piece....Sort of a recasting partially..


be carefull with M.E.K. and use it in a well ventilated area.( it does smell pretty good though lol) make up a slurry to be sort of like j.b weld consistancy...

Maybe someone else will have a better solution for you thats all I know for a coil ear that takes alot of stress...

Keith

Get some two part epoxy , not the quick setting type but the real stuff--5 ton or stronger and then the secret ingredient---panty hose or a similar type of nylon mess. Saturate all the fibers with the epoxy and use it to wrap/support the broken joint with multiple layers if you can maintain enough clearance to get the shaft in easily. I've repaired numerous items successfully like this; a kind of fiberglass bandage

There are plastic welders on the market that will put it back together again.Some auto shops have them to fix plastic parts that get broken trying to get a dash and other parts ott. I have two of them and I have repaired coils and many plastic parts on cars. Harbor Freight did handle some but that is not where I bought mine, so just check the internet .

wow did not Know of a plastic welder...

That really gets the creative juices flowing in the Modding sense!!

thanks

Keith

Plastic welder works good just make sure you get the compatible plastic rods for the plastic your welding.

Wow, never heard of a plastic welder either. That's sounds pretty cool. Thank you all for the input.

Welding plastic freehand is next to impossible. Epoxy also does not work well on polypropyln based plastics. I recommend a product called "Seal-All" for such repairs. It is often used to repair gas tanks.

If it's ABS like most coils, acetone wil cement it just fine by the same kind of "melt/weld) that plastic model airplane glue did for models.

Rick Kempf
Gold Canyon AZ- where there is no gold

I don't believe coil covers are molded of ABS. Just too brittle. The polypropylene and polyethylene families of plastics are tougher but don't take glue, even with an activator.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2015 12:14PM by go-rebels.

Keith Southern Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> thats tuff....
>
> I can tell you I fixed a ear one time on a Tesoro
> brown coil...
>
> now heres what i did and it may or may not
> work....I took the coil cover... seemed to be the
> same plastic...and cut a piece off and chipped it
> up real fine....like slaw....then went to the
> hardware store and got some M.E.K. and dissolved
> the plastic into the M.E.K. and let it sit for
> awhile while it melted and created a
> slurry....took a few hours to slurry up into a
> paste..
>
>
> then I took the piece broken and applied some
> M.E.K. to it at both the break points and let it
> soften some .. then took the slurry and slobbed on
> the broken piece and attached piece to coil...
> then took the rest and slobbered it around the
> outside and let dry overnight with a clothes pin
> holding it for the first hour or so then removing
> it at letting it hold itself... next day took
> dremel tool and cleaned it up a bit but it was not
> really noticable and it worked fine.....
>
> Ive heard that the way a coil is sealed is with
> M.E.K. and a plastic slurry but not sure....but it
> will be super strong if your lucky .. the
> reasoning to it is the palstic sort of all melts
> together and then rehardens as one piece....Sort
> of a recasting partially..
>
>
> be carefull with M.E.K. and use it in a well
> ventilated area.( it does smell pretty good though
> lol) make up a slurry to be sort of like j.b weld
> consistancy...
>
> Maybe someone else will have a better solution for
> you thats all I know for a coil ear that takes
> alot of stress...
>
> Keith


eh! he! he!..be very careful with (m.e.k.)..do NOT breathe this
sh*T at all,or you'll end up a "statistic" for an "obit" column.
really bad,bad crap if inhaled!..mix it out of doors preferably with a
'wind" present,not blowin' smoke!....read the "mdss"(material data safety sheet) on this stuff from the fed.
happy it worked for you keith!

(h.h.!)
j.t.

If it's ABS, then specific ABS cement (adhesive) is available, it's commonly sold as Pipe Cement, for bonding water pipe / similar industrial pipes. It stinks like heck, so use it in a well ventilated area.
The Fisher coil is actually carbon-loaded, but whether that will affect any bonding processes is anyone's guess.