i took it apart to clean out some water now cant get it back to work .theres a tiny spring and the on/off switch thats fooling me

cheers

That's funny, I was servicing my own Propointer a few weeks ago, and thought to myself:
"I haven't seen one of those "I took my Propointer apart and broke it" posts on a forum for quite some time, maybe because people are using newer/different pointers these days".
And Lo and Behold...

There's probably some YouTube vid showing the switch rebuild procedure.

From memory, put in the bent wire 'latch', use a tiny blob of BluTack to hold it in the correct position. Stand the spring over its peg above the latch wire. Lower the button inner-piece with two contacts over the spring and into place, and the latch should find its groove in the side of the inner-piece, and lock the inner-piece in place. Remove the BluTack, clip over the top-piece, making sure it's clipped properly on both sides. Give it a few test-pushes, then turn it ON, so the button is depressed. Then have fun inserting the board.

thanks.. its a pretty kranky inner design .. horrors ..

Yup, some pretty awful design features. Notably the PCB guide slots that are tapered with the outer body, so offer no guidance whatsover. You can 90% insert the board without it engaging in the slots. And don't bring up the solid-core wires linking coil to board ....

I'm surprised they didn't come out with a 'Mark 2' much sooner.

I remember a while back....]people where taking them apart..and breaking the switch back in!

I learned my lesson a good while back, never ever take one apart. Period Taking it apart is super easy, it's getting it back together that's the nightmare.

tabman

Quote:"Taking it apart is super easy"
I think that's where most people go wrong, they smash the switch to bits pulling out the board. Luckily, they designed the pcb so it uses both sections of the switch in parallel, so even if one set of springy contacts is lost, it will still work.

And for the benefit of anyone contemplating dismantling one:

Undo the screw inside the battery compartment by about 1/16th inch (1 - 2mm).
Remove the rubber switch button.
Press the switch so it's turned ON, with the switch button in, not out.
Using small pliers etc, pull the battery holder/circuit board outwards. The slightly-undone screw will stop it violently coming unstuck.
Remove the screw completely, check the switch is still on, and slowly pull the innards all the way out.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/06/2018 07:42PM by Pimento.

yes switch got busted in the withdrawal of the board so a new switch is 5 pounds ,cudnt see any on the bay yet

no idea what make and serial number the switch is .can anyone help ?

Five quid, daylight robbery. You should be able to get a bag of 50 for that price.
There's no 'standard' part number for them, you just have to match up specifications, eg. size, button length, pinout.
It's a common cheap switch, except it doesn't appear to be stocked by any of the usual distributors, they typically sell the larger version of it, but not the smaller one Garrett chose.