If i sold my 1021 CZ3D, what should i ask for it?

Please keep in mind i am in the UK, and the brits dont hold as much passion or knowledge of this machine as you guys do...
Its a CZ3D serial# 10210805
Original instruction manuals and 2 coil covers (extra coil cover sent by accident and never used,)
8" spider coil

I purchased it as soon as Joan Allen detectors UK imported them in....
As soon as i bought it life threw me a curve ball and basicaly i didnt use the machine at all, (maybe twice at most and that was with no knowledge of what i had or settings)
Its had all of its use in the last 7 months.
I would approximate between 300 and 400 hours of use.
It has found me a lot of stuff.....Probably the most suprising was a silver hammered coin from 1247AD, 16mm diameter and probably only 1mm thick.......the CZ3D found this at approx 9".....admmitedly it was a weak signal but none the less this is quite impressive considering the coins size and depth...

I am looking to upgrade and am wondering what i should be asking for this machine of i sold it privately?....
Obviously selling to someone in the US will incur a postage charge, but i would only charge exactly what the postage costs.....I am just getting a feel for the sort of money i should be looking for on this machine...

I would get the new T2 or LTD hands down mate

LowBoy

TAKE A LITTLE TIME KICKBACK AND WATCH SOME OF MY DETECTING VIDEO'S BELOW ON YouTube

[www.youtube.com]

If you don’t dig it, then how are you going to know what you’re missing!
How can you have your pudding if you don’t eat your meat!

Thanks Lowboy, its not the choice i need advise on..have pretty much made my mind up....
Its how much should i be asking for my CZ3D if i sold it privately.....

I would BORROW the machine you have in mind..................hunt with it a few times............................compare it to the CZ-3D........................and find yourself returning the BORROWED machine! Seriously. You may find that the CZ-3D is nearly impossible to 'trump'.

I concur. I love my 3D, it is my goto machine. Out of all my machines, it has found me the best stuff this year. The more I use it the more I love it. I started using the 5" Fisher coil, and its finding me even more deep coins in trashy areas I've been pounding. Now all I need is for Tom to do the AU-21x mod to it...;-)
Dont sell it, trust me. Everyone one that does wants them back...
Aaron



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/31/2010 03:47AM by Aaron.

A nice CZ3 about $450.00

LowBoy

TAKE A LITTLE TIME KICKBACK AND WATCH SOME OF MY DETECTING VIDEO'S BELOW ON YouTube

[www.youtube.com]

If you don’t dig it, then how are you going to know what you’re missing!
How can you have your pudding if you don’t eat your meat!

its worth about $100.00 usd since its so old........ill take it off your hands ! L.O.L.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hallo there..
....stay put! -you have got a "Special" do not sell that to get an "Average"
-have just remounted the cz control box to get better balance and less less weight to swing,- and wow the quicksilver
is one great machine...
I swopped my first edition F75 for an F70 just to be able to raise sens from low to medium and it works well here in my
ground around Oslo.
Try to get your hands on the small coil- the 5"concentric, it is really hot in thrash and man made iron if you swing a little
slower than usual.....
happy hunting and good luck ....
trond

Thanks for your replys guys....
Tom, are you saying that the 3D will perform as good as the Etrac or the XP Deus?
If so then wow....
I will have to consider the hip mount because after 6 hours the 3D becomes heavy on a bad wrist...

For what it's worth, I recently paid $475 US for a used CZ-3D (1021 series) with 8" & 5" coils...not including exchange from Cdn. to US...Customs charges and damed Canadian HST taxes...OUCH. I've seen them sell for as little as $400 but that's the lowest I've ever seen them go for here on this side of the world.

While I have seen some CZ-3D's sell for short money on eBay... I recently purchased a used 1121 series CZ-3D that was in excellent condition for $498 (US). So don't sell your unit short... it can still command a respectable price if it was kept in top condition.

There's quite a learning curve to switch from a CZ to a Minelab Explorer......and you may not like it. Hence; my recommendation to TRY one .... before you buy. It's a deep as a CZ.....and can be more complicated to use. Very good unit though. I've never tested a XP....so I cannot answer for this one. Once again...............TRY before you bail on the CZ.

These words are EXTREMELY true. I have a SE Pro, and it has been one of the most diificult machines to use. YES...it is true it is very good for finding deep silver, however, finding nickles is not easy, alot of those guys dont bother with them, and gold rings well...I feel the 3D's vdi is superior (in some ways) to the Minelabs. I think the best thing about it is its unique ability to be able to unmask stuff that I woulnt have found with my CZ's. For example, last week I found 2 old copper pennys from the 60's 6-7" down with the following in the same hole on top and bottom of the pennys. 2 complety rusted bottle caps 4 or 5 small nails and a small peice of rusted metal. Now that didnt just jump out at me, the vdi kept bouncing back to the area but it was the hi tone that kept me from passing it up. Not a impressive find but a impressive display of unmasking. Another thing is...the Etrac and Explorer are very slooooow, even more so than the CZ's. That also takes some getting used too.
I still wouldnt let go of that 3D...and if you do and its a hot one, I would get atleast $450. I really think Fisher is going to discontinue that model, too expensive to make and calibrate. Watch...even the Mexican ones will be in demand.
Aaron

Quote

I really think Fisher is going to discontinue that model, too expensive to make and calibrate. Watch...even the Mexican ones will be in demand.

They have already stopped selling them over here so i thought it was already a discontinued model....

Quote

It's a deep as a CZ.....and can be more complicated to use.

Are you saying that the CZ3D is already on par or possibly deeper than minelabs most up to date machine?.....if so thats impressive and i will certainly be reconsidering...

This is what is now confusing me, the CZ is approx 6 years old technology (not sure of exact age of CZ3D though, and am happy to be corrected) and its still as deep seeking as the new machines?.....

So ignoring the bells and whistles of the new machines am i right in presuming through your testing that you would be happy with the fact that the CZ3D is on a level playing field against up to date machines?

Dont get me wrong i have no beef with my machine....it is an excellent machine and the depth is also excellent, but it appears i am falling into the hype of these newer machines and their depth capabilities.......

The XP deus has some rave reviews over here and there is a waiting list to get one and the price is crazy.....but it does have a lot of +'s with just a few negatives.......

As for the learning curve i am happy with that...i love to learn and try to absorb as much info about my machines as possible...but i would be a fool to drop a machine just because of advertising hype and not real life experience.......

Yes, they are still currently selling the 3D over here.

I have only had my SE for a few months, it does go deep, however, I do not think it has anything as far as depth on a properly tuned 3D. I've been finding pennies and silver dimes with my 3D with a 5" coil at 7"-8" and they sounded off like a ton of bricks.
The MineLab is a really good machine however, they have some issues with company reorganization and were bought out by another company and are having alot of problems in customer service. People are sending them their machines and not getting them back for weeks and sometimes months. They also have switched from production in Ireland to Malaysia which is a big concern to alot of folks. Fortunately, mine was one of the last from Ireland.
I would wait if I was you till the dust settles and like Tom says, "borrow one first". I think you will be very surprised at how much of a completely different machine it is, and it is no where near as easy to learn as the 3D. And best of all, I think you'll begin to appreciate your 3D alot more.
Just my 2 zincs worth.

I wear mine on a wide belt and it works grt with this config. Even with the large coil it is easy on the arm. About the same as my uMax. I didnt have anyone around to borrow from so I had to make a choice based on research and my style of hunting. Found my first Kennedy half dollar yesterday in a patch of grd that keeps on giving. This MD is a nickel getter too. Keeping track. I also dug 2 nickels, 2 zinc pennies, a token, 8 bottle caps, 3 tab tails and a couple slaw pcs. I dig it all. If its in good shape I wouldnt part for less than 500.00 IMHO. Keep it and get more coils.

NEVER assume "newer is better". I have a 20-year old CZ-6 (with white coil and pig-tail).....and it is as deep as the new F75's........and is the most simplistic unit to use.

If it is at all possible................buy one of the new machines BEFORE selling the CZ. Hunt with the new unit several times. You may find yourself going back to the CZ.

I agree with that!!!! I had the 1121 CZ-3D, then realized how much I really liked it..... now I have the CZ-3D (1021)... How deep will the 5 inch coil go?

Assuming your unit is approx 12" air-test capable on a dime with OEM 8" coil................the 5" coil .......under ideal circumstances......should ascertain a dime at 10". Yes.........5" coil acquiring 10" dime. Not a typo.

WOW, I did get in a short hunt tonight under the apple trees using my new 5 inch coil.......... and I could hear it pick through the junk in the ground!!!! I was excited to find a 1946 Rosie dime at 7 inches!!!..............I will post the video soon............ Also Tom what is this AU-21x mod I have read about???

Au-21X is one of my concepts (fully functioning prototype) that I have not released yet. Quite a bit up my proverbial sleeve....yet......I'm somewhat time restricted.

[www.youtube.com]

I like how you kept it in the clump of dirt ... for some time.

Tom, That's the best way to find any coin up here in Maine...... I just prefer larger/older coins............ (sorry for the darkness of the video) going to hunt a old grange hall built in 1918, got permission this evening................. Whoo Hooo.. Will keep all posted

I have upgraded to the Etrac and am damn impressed with its recovery speed and target seperation and depth......
Although as yet it has found nothing deeper than my CZ has.......yet!!
But i have decided to keep the CZ as a very good back up machine.....

Aaron Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> These words are EXTREMELY true. I have a SE Pro,
> and it has been one of the most diificult machines
> to use. YES...it is true it is very good for
> finding deep silver, however, finding nickles is
> not easy, alot of those guys dont bother with
> them, and gold rings well...I feel the 3D's vdi is
> superior (in some ways) to the Minelabs. I think
> the best thing about it is its unique ability to
> be able to unmask stuff that I woulnt have found
> with my CZ's. For example, last week I found 2 old
> copper pennys from the 60's 6-7" down with the
> following in the same hole on top and bottom of
> the pennys. 2 complety rusted bottle caps 4 or 5
> small nails and a small peice of rusted metal. Now
> that didnt just jump out at me, the vdi kept
> bouncing back to the area but it was the hi tone
> that kept me from passing it up. Not a impressive
> find but a impressive display of unmasking.
> Another thing is...the Etrac and Explorer are very
> slooooow, even more so than the CZ's. That also
> takes some getting used too.
> I still wouldnt let go of that 3D...and if you do
> and its a hot one, I would get atleast $450. I
> really think Fisher is going to discontinue that
> model, too expensive to make and calibrate.
> Watch...even the Mexican ones will be in demand.
> Aaron

Aaron... I agree that the SE is one frustrating machine to learn... the V3 is too, life is too short to be frustrated with a hobby.. if I wanted that I would take up golf. I disagree on one thing though... you do not have to swing slow with the E-TRAC. I've never used a CZ, i'd like to try either a Cz-5 or a 3D but I bought a T2 when it first came out, an F75 and F75 LTD when they first came out.. I love the slower swing speed of the LTD in BP mode much better than the fast swing of the original F75. From what I understand, actually from Tom IIRC... if not I apologize... the F75 in 4H will do the same thing that a 3D will do. Still, i'd like to try one sometime.

J

Take your time learning the E-TRAC. Let us know how it performs for you. You may find that you will return to the CZ........or.........you may bail on the CZ. If you have bad dirt.......you will (most probably) favor the E-TRAC.

Thanks Tom.......Yes i will be taking my time, i love to learn all there is about the stuff i use...
At the moment i am using an open screen and switch between 2 tone ferrous and multitone.....
I havent found anything deeper yet than what the CZ is capable of......

As said i am impressed with the recovery speed and target seperation so far....
Example....
For test purposes i deliberately took the Etrac to a small paddock that is full of iron/rubbish....and i have been on before with the CZ....

I had an open screen and was using 2 tone ferrous....
I had an iron signal and then instantly a hightone signal....
Turned 90degrees and the signal became blippy but diggable...
Turned another 90 and it became 2 seperate signals again....
Dug the plug out (my pinpointing is not yet accurate with the Etrac) and in the side of the hole about 6" down i could see the length (horizontal orientation) of a 2" rusty nail......thought ok no probs that was the iron signal and possible why it gave a false hightone signal......
As i pulled the nail out a small bit of dirt came out with it and something shining through the gap....
I flicked some more dirt out and there was a small key (exactly parralel and exactly horizontal orientation) less that 1cm away from the rusty nail.......
I didnt have my CZ with me that day to see wether it could have distinguished the 2 targets....

Although it was only a key, it could quite well have been a good target.....

The only way to perform head-to-head.....is to NOT move your feet........and immediately try the other detector on the exact same target. This should provide a good level of fairness.

No disc with Ferrous/2-tone is NOT a good way to hunt. Some uninformed people on forums will tell you it is, and it may be with an Explorer, but not with the E-TRAC. I get frustrated having to say this over and over (not to you) but if you don't believe me how about Minelab?

You must use some iron disc if you want the E-TRAC to perform it's magic for you.

From the manual: [www.minelab.com]

Page 38....

Trash Density
Range: Low or High
Factory Preset: Low

The Trash Density setting will enable you to optimise the Discrimination of the detector for areas that have highly variable ground mineralisation or unusually high amounts of ferrous objects.
When the Discrimination Pattern is ‘All Metal’, the Trash Density setting has no effect.
When the Discrimination Pattern has rejected (black) areas E-Trac will produce different detection results depending on the Trash Density setting. The Trash Density setting will not affect the target audio response.
Low is recommended in areas that have low ground mineralisation or low amounts of ferrous trash.
High is recommended in areas with highly variable ground mineralisation or unusually high amounts of ferrous objects (Iron trash).

LOW
In Low setting, E-Trac locks onto the strongest signal target during detection and the detector displays the most stable Target ID.
For example, when a coin is buried amongst nails and you are using a Disc. Pattern that accepts coins and rejects nails, the detector will lock onto the target with the strongest signal. If the coin produces a stronger signal response, then the Target ID for the coin will be displayed at the end of detection.
If the nail produces a stronger signal response, then the Detector will blank at the end of detection and the Target ID will not update as the nail is rejected by your Disc. Pattern.
It is recommended to use Low in areas with low trash. It is not recommended to use Low in areas where a “good” target may be masked by the presence of strong signals from ferrous objects or high ground mineralisation.
The Low Trash Density setting also allows you to create a quite narrow discrimination pattern for a specific target as the Target ID is more stable than in High Trash Density.

HIGH
In High setting, E-Trac searches for the best accepted target signal during detection and then displays the most stable Target ID. The High setting allows you to detect accepted targets in the presence of ferrous objects, high ground mineralisation or amongst a number of rejected targets.
For example, when a coin is buried amongst nails and you are using a Disc. Pattern that accepts coins and rejects nails, the detector will lock onto the coin and the Target ID for the coin will be displayed at the end of detection. If the nail produces a stronger signal response the detector will not blank at the end of detection, and the Target ID for the coin will be displayed at the end of detection.
It is recommended to use High in areas with high trash and where a “good” target may be masked by the presence of many ferrous objects or high ground mineralisation.
In a High Trash Density setting the Target ID is more unstable, therefore, a greater number of Target ID numbers need to be used to reject a specific target.
High Trash Density can be used with a slightly faster sweep, so it is suitable for use during competition hunts or in areas where speed of ground coverage is important.

NOW... "if you read this carefully you will note under the "HIGH" setting notes that this statement is in the E-TRAC manual: For example, when a coin is buried amongst nails and you are using a Disc. Pattern that accepts coins and rejects nails, the detector will lock onto the coin and the Target ID for the coin will be displayed at the end of detection. If the nail produces a stronger signal response the detector will not blank at the end of detection, and the Target ID for the coin will be displayed at the end of detection."

What this is saying, and it is true,... is that if you have the ET set in HIGH TRASH and you have IRON DISCED OUT... the ET will LOCK ON TO an ACCEPTED NON-FERROUS TARGET and IGNORE (not signal on ) the iron.
If you use no disc it will lock onto whatever target is strongest... which is usually the iron and is the reason the masked target is still there... but if you want to run the ET with no disc... go for it.

I do not understand why people insist on telling other people to use no disc with the E-TRAC. I am guessing that they are Explorer users who are STILL trying to make the E-TRAC be an Explorer III... it is not an Explorer III.

The E-TRACs "see through" or "unmasking" ability depends on the use of a little iron disc. Some machines will hull on iron and not signal a masked target. The software in the E-TRAC will seek out any target that is "Accepted", ignore the nulled metal and give a signal on the accepted target... it may not be a banging, 4 way hit... it may be a one way hit. The FEnumber may still be skewed by the iron but the CO number from at least that one direction will be correct and will hit consistantly.

If you are using all metal all the time... you are missing good targets.

Julien








Blackadder43 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks Tom.......Yes i will be taking my time, i
> love to learn all there is about the stuff i
> use...
> At the moment i am using an open screen and switch
> between 2 tone ferrous and multitone.....
> I havent found anything deeper yet than what the
> CZ is capable of......
>
> As said i am impressed with the recovery speed and
> target seperation so far....
> Example....
> For test purposes i deliberately took the Etrac to
> a small paddock that is full of
> iron/rubbish....and i have been on before with the
> CZ....
>
> I had an open screen and was using 2 tone
> ferrous....
> I had an iron signal and then instantly a hightone
> signal....
> Turned 90degrees and the signal became blippy but
> diggable...
> Turned another 90 and it became 2 seperate signals
> again....
> Dug the plug out (my pinpointing is not yet
> accurate with the Etrac) and in the side of the
> hole about 6" down i could see the length
> (horizontal orientation) of a 2" rusty
> nail......thought ok no probs that was the iron
> signal and possible why it gave a false hightone
> signal......
> As i pulled the nail out a small bit of dirt came
> out with it and something shining through the
> gap....
> I flicked some more dirt out and there was a small
> key (exactly parralel and exactly horizontal
> orientation) less that 1cm away from the rusty
> nail.......
> I didnt have my CZ with me that day to see wether
> it could have distinguished the 2 targets....
>
> Although it was only a key, it could quite well
> have been a good target.....